Your Guide to Genetic Skin Types: Sensitive Skin

Not all skin is created equal. By understanding *your* skin type, you can better address your skin concerns and properly care for it, which helps to maintain healthy skin in the long run. 

In our Genetic Skin Types series, we’ll be taking a closer look at the most common skin types and how to build your healthy skin routine accordingly.

While all skin types have their challenges, sensitive skin is unique in that it can actually be uncomfortable — it is, after all, sensitive. That means it’s more likely to react to everything from environmental aggressors to ingredients in your skincare routine.

Not only that, but sensitive skin is unique in that it can also co-exist with a second skin type, for example oily, dry, and combination skin. So, it’s less about specific characteristics of the skin and more about whether it feels tight or looks red. 

With that in mind, here’s what you need to know about keeping sensitive skin healthy, happy, and comfortable for years to come.

What is sensitive skin?

Think of sensitive skin as a second layer to your genetic skin type. “Sensitivity is sort of like this secondary, complex skin type involving inflammation, whereas your genetic skin type involves the level and rate of oil production in the skin,” says NakedPoppy skin specialist Tara Parenti.

So, you can have excess oil and have sensitive skin. You can also have genetically dry skin, which means an under-production of oil, and have sensitive skin. That’s because under-production of oil can influence sensitivity (although it doesn’t dictate it). “It can actually be problematic and compromise our barrier even further, because our natural oil secretion helps to protect our skin,” she says.

What causes sensitive skin?

First, there’s the genetic component. “People with sensitive skin can be genetically predisposed to have a more easily triggered inflammatory response and an over-production of histamine,” says Parenti. That can often lead to inflammatory conditions that go above and beyond skin, including eczema, asthma, and hay fever allergies.

“Sensory perception is also more intense,” says Parenti. “For example, someone with a reactive and sensitive skin may experience stinging, itching, and even burning from certain topical products or ingredients.”

Other factors can contribute to sensitive skin, too, including gender, hormones, age, skin type, and the environment, says NakedPoppy research scientist Marisa Plescia. For instance, it’s more often self-reported by women. And, as skin matures, it becomes more sensitive. “Among post-menopausal women who say they have sensitive skin, over 70% perceived their skin sensitivity increased after menopause,” says Plescia. [1] “The skin undergoes many changes while aging and these can all affect the potential for sensitivity.”

Also, a note on sensitized skin (different than sensitive skin): “Sensitized skin is often associated with external factors and triggers, and can develop over time,” says Plescia. Basically, it’s self-sabotage that leads to the redness, discomfort, and itchiness associated with sensitized skin from habits like over-exfoliating, harsh ingredients like retinol, and even environmental factors. 

The difference? Sensitive skin is a chronic condition that has to be managed, while sensitized skin can be fixed by repairing the skin barrier and avoiding the triggers.

What are the signs of sensitive skin?

Not-so-fun fact: When it comes to sensitive skin, others can’t always see what you’re feeling. “It can be difficult to observe measurable signs of irritation and sensitivity, but the subjective perceptions of sensitive skin include itching, redness, stinging, burning, tightness, and dryness,” says Plescia.

This conflict has led to a definition created by a special interest group on sensitive skin, the International Forum for the Study of Itch (IFSI), which defines sensitive skin as: “A syndrome defined by the occurrence of unpleasant sensations (stinging, burning, pain, pruritus, and tingling sensations) in response to stimuli that normally should not provoke such sensations. These unpleasant sensations cannot be explained by lesions attributable to any skin disease. The skin can appear normal or be accompanied by erythema. Sensitive skin can affect all body locations, especially the face.” [2]

How to treat sensitive skin

First, good news: You don’t have to swear off all your favorite skincare products. A major misconception, according to Plescia, is the thinking that beauty products contain ingredients known to trigger sensitive skin — and formulators just turn a blind eye to it.

But that’s not actually the case. “The development of consumer products often does include premarket product testing and development intended to ensure that a product is free of irritant potential,” she says. “However, since everyone’s skin is different, reactions to a given ingredient or product can be very difficult to predict.”

Since sensitivity varies from person to person, there’s no exact rule to follow for managing sensitive skin. But certain things can help to varying degrees, so try them out and see what works for you:

Look for patterns

In other words, track your triggers. “Keep track of any commonalities or ingredient groups that cause a sensory reaction,” says Plescia. Jotting it down on your phone or in a notebook can help you connect the dots and find the source of sensitivity. 

Once you know your sensitivities, take our quick, 3-minute NakedPoppy beauty assessment, during which you can select your known allergens or sensitivities. Our new Smart Ingredients technology, which is a proprietary database of cosmetics ingredients, includes the various iterations of common skin irritants—so they can all be filtered out of your Perfect Picks.

Maintain a healthy skin barrier

The skin barrier is the source of skin health, and maintaining it by cleansing gently, moisturizing regularly, and wearing SPF. For more details on how to take good care of it, scroll on over here and pop a bookmark on our end-all, be-all guide to the skin barrier.

Pare back your actives

On the note of maintaining your skin barrier, give it a break by minimizing more aggressive ingredients. “Continuing to use actives such as hydroxy acids or retinol can potentially make things worse,” says Parenti. “Less is more.” 

That doesn’t mean you have to swear it off forever, but if you’re experiencing an active inflammatory response or are in a persistent inflammatory state — red, painful, et cetera — take a temporary break.

Soothe inflammation

Inflammation and sensitivity have a tight-knit relationship — so, no surprise here, Plescia recommends incorporating anti-inflammatory ingredients, such as aloe vera, colloidal oatmeal, and rosehip seed oil, into your routine. In doing so, it’ll help keep redness and stinging at bay.

Patch-test your products

New product? No problem — just do a patch test. “Since it can be difficult to determine what or if a beauty product can cause an effect, do a patch test before using,” says Plescia. “A patch test involves testing the product on a small patch of skin — for example, on the neck — to see if there are any reactions.”

Ultimately, the most important thing to do with sensitive skin is to baby it. “It’s not really a matter of curing sensitive skin,” says Parenti. “it is just managing and maintaining those inflammatory flare-ups — and learning what those inflammatory triggers and allergens are.” Once you know what those are, the rest is easy.

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