If your skin has been looking a little dry and dull, a single ingredient can help turn that around: squalane. Although it’s not squal-ene — an important distinction we’ll get to shortly — squalane can work wonders in your skincare routine, trapping moisture into skin without clogging pores or feeling heavy. Want to provide your skin with the extra oomph it needs? You’re in the right place.

What is squalane?

Like we mentioned, squalane is related to squalene — and though they sound similar, they’re not exactly the same molecule. Squalene is a lipid naturally produced by the skin, where it makes up as much as 10-14% of your skin’s sebum, an oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands, along with fatty acids and other lipids [1]. It’s also an ingredient used in beauty products. When buying makeup and skincare, be sure the squalene is not animal derived as it can be obtained from shark livers. However, this is increasingly rare as consumer demand for plant-derived and sustainable ingredients has increased.

Squalane, on the other hand, is a more stable version of squalene, also used in beauty products. Not only that, but it’s also commonly derived from plant sources, such as olives or sugarcane. For that reason, squalane can usually be considered cruelty-free (it’s clean too!), but even so, it’s a good idea to double-check that the squalane in your skincare products is not animal-derived. (At NakedPoppy, the squalane is sourced from plants only.)

Since the difference of one letter always seems to be confusing, let’s sum it up: 

  • Squalene occurs naturally in our bodies, and isn’t as stable as squalane. Sometimes, it’s sourced from shark liver.
  • Squalane is a derivative of squalene that’s more stable and plant-derived.

What are squalane’s skin benefits?

Squalane’s main claim to fame is that it’s an emollient. “Emollients act as occlusive agents, meaning that they coat the skin and act as a seal further preventing water loss,” says Marisa Plescia, NakedPoppy research scientist. (Emollients are one of those key components of a good moisturizer, along with humectants and occlusives.) It’s also a natural antioxidant, which helps repair and protect against UV and environmental damage, so you’re getting two perks in one.

A quick refresher on emollients: Your skin’s outermost layer consists of a lipid matrix that prevents excessive skin water loss and protects the body — you might already know this as your skin barrier. When squalane coats your skin, however, it helps fortify the barrier between your face and any environmental aggressors, be they harsh wind or sneaky pollutants.

But if your skin already produces squalene on its own, why, you might ask, do you need to supplement that with squalane? We’re glad you asked. As we get older, our skin’s natural production of squalene declines, so incorporating squalane oil in your skincare routine is a powerful way to keep skin properly moisturized and buffer against age-related dryness.

In preventing moisture loss, squalane also helps keep skin well hydrated, leaving it supple, soft, and smooth. Not only that, but it’s also lightweight and similar in lipid structure to the skin’s natural lipid composition — meaning it can more readily sink into the skin barrier.

On top of that, squalane can help balance oil production and is non-comedogenic — meaning it won’t block your pores — so it’s a safe bet for acne-prone skin. It blends effortlessly into your skin with little to no greasiness or shine, for those wary of heavy moisturizers. And since squalane is nearly identical to skin’s natural squalene, it’s even gentle enough for sensitive skin.

How to use squalane in your routine

Considering the fussiness of other ingredients (looking at you, retinol), squalane is relatively easygoing. Whether in your morning skincare routine, nighttime skincare routine, or both, squalane can be used whenever and wherever your skin’s feeling dull or dry.

Since squalane is a facial oil, you can use it a couple ways in your skincare routine. Use it on damp skin in place of a moisturizer — or since squalane is a thinner oil, layer it after your toner and before your serum step.

Where to find squalane in skincare products

You can usually find squalane as a headliner in moisturizers, face oils, and even makeup products, thanks to its hydrating and smoothing benefits. These days, you can find it in Indie Lee Daily Skin Nutrition Moisturizer, which pairs it with all-stars vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, as well as Indie Lee Squalane Facial Oil, which contains pure, olive-derived squalane.

In your makeup routine, Vapour Blush Powder has squalane for a hydration boost, which conditions skin while adding a rosy glow. Prep your eye makeup with Alima Pure Eye Primer, which nourishes the delicate eyelid skin with squalane and shea butter while enhancing the wear of anything you layer on top — Alima Pure squalane-infused Pressed Eyeshadow, perhaps?

Part of the squalane’s newfound appeal and ubiquity? There’s zero downside to it. So slather it on without worry and enjoy the soft, smooth skin it can help deliver.

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References

[1] Squalene makes up as much as 10-14% of your skin’s sebum https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2835894/