Updated 02.23.23

Retinol is one of those magical ingredients that spans many skin types and concerns. Seeing breakouts? Retinol can help. Dark spots? Retinol can work for that. And even if you’re targeting fine lines and wrinkles — or just want smoother, brighter skin — retinol is, once again, your best bet.

That said, however, retinol can take some adjusting. Plus, it’s not exactly known for being clean; it’s also notoriously fickle, and the ingredients that have typically been used to keep it stable don’t have a great safety record. But with the right intel in hand, a clean formula, and some patience, you can make the most of this overachieving ingredient — and be on your way to brighter, smoother, and firmer skin.

Here, a quick rundown on retinol before we get into it:

  • Retinol is a type of retinoid, a large class of vitamin A derivatives.
  • Retinol can help address lines and wrinkles, breakouts, dark spots, and uneven texture.
  • Retinol may cause redness and flakiness, which should subside once skin acclimates.
  • Apply it at night and pair it with moisturizer to offset any side effects.
  • Many retinols aren’t clean, as they may be paired with stabilizers that are known or suspected to be harmful.

What is retinol?

Retinol is a type of vitamin A. Technically, it’s one of many retinoids, which serves as an umbrella term. “‘Retinoids’ describe all forms of vitamin A,” says NakedPoppy research scientist Marisa Plescia. “The retinoid family comprises retinol and its other natural derivatives, such as retinoic acid, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters like retinyl palmitate — plus many other synthetic derivatives.”

Also, a quick but important clarification: While retinoid is the umbrella term for all the vitamin A derivatives, it’s also frequently used to describe prescription-only vitamin A formulas, such as tretinoin (which goes by the brand name Retin-A) and tazarotene. So, a prescription-strength cream from the dermatologist may be called a retinoid, while an over-the-counter serum with retinol offers a type of retinoid.

The prescription-strength products use retinoic acid, which is the most potent form of vitamin A — and comes with side effects to match (more on those in a sec). Everything else, including over-the-counter retinol, has to undergo conversions within skin to eventually turn into retinoic acid, which in turn lessens their potency. That said, they’re still just as effective. “Studies have found retinol significantly affects the cellular properties of the skin with similar effectiveness to retinoic acid, but with much less skin irritation and redness,” Plescia explains.

What are the benefits of retinol?

Put simply, retinol is an overachiever. “Retinoids stimulate cell turnover, which helps to decongest pores and fade discoloration by accelerating healthy skin cells to the surface of the skin,” says NakedPoppy skin specialist Tara Parenti. They also boost production of collagen and elastin within skin — benefits backed up by numerous studies — and double as an antioxidant. (Whew.)

This is a big deal, since these properties are essential for addressing sun damage, which accounts for roughly 80% (!) of visible changes in skin [1]. Sun damage, a.k.a. photoaging, can lead to a loss of elasticity and wrinkles as well as the creation of hyperpigmentation, says Plescia. Retinoids, on the other hand, can repair that damage. And it can offer an even more long-term payoff in this respect. “Not only does [skin cell turnover] result in a decrease in the appearance of wrinkles by providing a fresher, healthier, and smoother layer of skin, but it also allows for the skin to better respond to the damage caused by UV radiation,” says Plescia. In other words, it helps repair and protect — win-win.

Does clean retinol exist?

Some retinol formulas come with baggage, though it’s not the retinol itself so much as what’s often paired with it. “Retinoids such as retinol can be highly unstable, and so are better stabilized in formulations with BHT and BHA — which some studies link to health concerns including cancer, hormone disruption, and organ toxicity,” Plescia explains. “In California, BHA is on the Proposition 65 warning list as a possible carcinogen.”

There’s also the matter of how the retinol is included in a given formula. In some cases, retinols may be encapsulated in a protective coating, which allows them to better penetrate skin and have a time-released effect. “However, with encapsulation, retinol can contain ingredients such as PEGs and synthetic preservatives like parabens,” says Plescia.

Last but not least, a few studies have linked retinyl palmitate, another kind of retinoid, to the development of skin tumors and lesions under UV radiation in mice. “Retinyl palmitate was nominated by the U.S. FDA and selected by the National Toxicology Program (NTP) as a high-priority compound for phototoxicity and photocarcinogenicity studies,” says Plescia. Consider it best avoided, especially in any skincare products used during the daytime.

But there’s good news, we promise. Namely, you’ve got options.

First, there are clean formulas that don’t contain BHA, BHT, or ingredients like PEGs or parabens often found in encapsulated versions. One to try: Our carefully crafted NakedPoppy Renew Retinol Oil, which encapsulates retinol in naturally derived liposomes for a clean, gentle, and supremely effective formula. That encapsulation offers two big perks: It allows for better delivery of the retinol — shuttling it where it needs to go — and allows for a gradual release of the retinol, which keeps irritation at bay.

Inside, we pair it with a retinol alternative called bakuchiol, an extract from the Babchi plant that seems to work similarly to retinoids in skin [3] (without the irritation, no less), as well as squalene and bisabolol, two soothing, nourishing ingredients that offset any potential for redness or dryness. The pay-off? Results you can see, with comfort you can feel.

You’ll also find rosehip seed oil here, too. It’s a type of carotenoid, which are naturally-derived retinol alternatives. A type of carotenoid called beta-carotene, also known as Provitamin A, can be converted into retinal [2] (yet another derivative of vitamin A). (FYI: It’s also the star ingredient of our Revitalize Organic Facial Oil, so if you’re a fan, you’ve been reaping those perks all along.)

The good news: NakedPoppy does the research for you, so you don’t have to comb through an ingredient list; any retinol products you find on NakedPoppy have been carefully and thoroughly screened by a scientist for safety. Want more clean, vetted recs? You’re in the right place: Just take our quick, 3-minute beauty assessment for personalized recs to round out the rest of your routine.

When should you start using retinol?

You can start it at any age, but it’s a good idea to start incorporating it into your routine once you reach your late 20s or early 30s — which is around the time signs of skin aging typically make their first appearance.

However, stop using it if you’re pregnant or nursing. “There are some studies that have connected excessive levels of vitamin A can interfere with fetal development and lead to birth defects and some cases of topical tretinoin leading to birth defects,” explains Plescia. “Although these studies are still a bit controversial and may be inconclusive, until more data is collected, women are not encouraged to use topical retinoids during pregnancy.”

How should you use retinol in your routine?

As we mentioned, retinol comes with a learning curve, since many may experience some level of dryness or irritation. (Plus, some people may experience more acne outbreaks for the first week or two as the skin adjusts to the retinol — a fun little phenomenon known as purging — but that should subside on its own.)

If you’re a first-timer, start slow. Unless a dermatologist prescribes you a higher amount, Parenti recommends using an over-the-counter version. Apply a pea-sized amount at night to clean, dry skin, and follow with moisturizer. “Use it one to two times a week until any effects lessen,” says Plescia.

Then, if your skin seems normal, you can scale it up from there. “If the redness and increased dryness persists beyond a few weeks or becomes uncomfortable, then you may need to drop down to a weaker formula,” says Parenti.

The acclimation period will be easier with a good moisturizer in hand. “To help combat the potential side effects of retinol usage such as dryness and redness, look for products with anti-inflammatory, soothing, and hydrating ingredients,” advises Plescia. “Natural oils, such as rosehip seed oil or squalene, are excellent choices to pair with retinol as they help nourish the skin and moisturize effectively. Natural oils are also full of antioxidants, which can help soothe and reduce any irritation.”

How to use retinol in your routine:

  1. After cleansing and/or toning, apply a pea-sized amount of your retinol product to dry skin.
  2. Layer on a moisturizer.
  3. Repeat 1-2 times a week, increasing frequency after any redness or flaking subsides. (If you’re using the NakedPoppy Renew Retinol Oil, though, you can start at a frequency of 2-3 times a week.)
  4. Work your way up to nightly use.
  5. Make sure to wear SPF during the day.

“Always apply a physical SPF during the day while using a retinol product — and avoid an SPF that contains retinyl palmitate,” says Parenti. The latter, when combined with sunlight, can be harmful (more on that below).

You should be able to see significant changes in your skin (assuming you’ve successfully ramped up to nightly usage) in about three to six months, says Parenti. “If you’re using a weaker retinol, it may take even longer,” she says. “Be patient with yourself.” One way to think of it? Consider it a long-term investment in your overall skin health, which results — like a radiant complexion — that will last for years to come.

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