Most recently updated 1/12/21

Seeing spots lately? It’s not you, it’s hyperpigmentation — the technical term for any sort of irregular pigmentation on the skin in the form of dark spots and patches. And while it can happen anytime, it’s especially common in the summer, since the sun is a major factor in its development. They typically fade over time, but it could take awhile.

The good news, though, is that certain ingredients (and lots of SPF!) can go a long way to speed up the process. Here, the most common types of dark spots and how best to fade them.

The Different Types of Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation can be broken down into three primary types:

  • Sun spots
  • Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
  • Melasma

First up, there’s UV-induced dark spots, also known as sun spots or age spots. “These are small pigmented spots on the skin with a clearly defined edge, surrounded by normal-appearing skin,” says Hadley King, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “It is a harmless hyperplasia of melanocytes.” (FYI: Hyperplasia is an increase in your pigment-forming cells.) Freckles are a type of this, too. They frequently appear in lighter skin tones on sun-exposed areas of the skin.

A dermatologist can spot the difference between these harmless spots and skin cancer, so make sure to get your skin checked at least once a year.

Another type of dark spot is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — “that is, pigment that is left in the skin after an inflammatory process resolves. We commonly see this after acne,” King explains. It’s especially common if you’ve picked your acne. But even if you do succeed in keeping your hands off, acne is enough of an inflammatory event that it can still result in a dark spot.

Last but not least, there’s melasma, which can appear as dark spots or blotches (which is why it’s often referred to as “the mask of pregnancy”). “A combination of factors contribute to melasma, including a genetic predisposition, hormone levels, and sun exposure,” says King.

Melasma can be particularly tough to treat, as you can’t really control the triggers that set it off. “We cannot control systemic hormone fluctuation or disarray,” says San Francisco skin specialist Tara Parenti. “For example, we can’t advise or control someone to stop taking birth control, not get pregnant, or halt menopause.”

While UV-related dark spots may be more common in lighter skin, dark skin tones are generally more prone to developing dark spots, particularly post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma. “In darker skin tones, there is more ‘pigment potential’,” says King. “This means that more pigment can get triggered, and then more pigment must be faded to get rid of the spots.”

How to Fade Dark Spots

The good news is that topical products can go a long way to treat hyperpigmentation, no matter what caused it. “Results will depend on how deep into the skin the hyperpigmentation is — the more superficial, the easier it is to treat,” says King. “In these cases, it is possible to achieve good results at home from using sun avoidance and over-the-counter sun protection, vitamin C, and kojic acid.”

A word to the wise: The best offense is a good defense, and the single best thing you can do to minimize and prevent hyperpigmentation is to use sunscreen. First, there’s the obvious connection between UV light and the aptly named sun spots. On top of that, regular sunscreen use on its own can actually reduce skin discoloration and even out skin tone.

Plus, there’s the fact that skipping sunscreen can undo all your efforts. “Unprotected sun exposure or too much heat induction can reverse months of correction,” says Parenti. As you’re brightening skin and evening out skin tone, it’s essential to use a clean sunscreen to make it worthwhile.

In the case of melasma, sun protection should be coupled with other strategies — since, as mentioned, melasma can be triggered by hormones and genetics. “It becomes even more important to adopt lifestyle habits and an aggressive treatment protocol to try and minimize melasma as much as possible,” Parenti explains.

Take, for instance, heat, which is often a trigger for melasma. “Avoid heat as much as possible,” she says. “Hot yoga, hot showers, and scrubs aren’t advised.”

Finally, look for ingredients that serve as tyrosinase inhibitors. Basically, they keep excess pigment from being created. “Tyrosinase is an enzyme that has a crucial role in the production of melanin and targeting melanogenesis, which is the process by which melanin is created by specialized cells called melanocytes,” Parenti explains. By blocking tyrosinase, these inhibitors put a stop to the process.

Kojic acid is a popular (and clean!) tyrosinase inhibitor, as are ferulic acid and licorice root extract. While hydroquinone is the most notable tyrosinase inhibitor, it can cause irritation and redness, not to mention further pigmentation issues (such as a “halo” of lightened skin around dark spots). It’s banned or restricted in the EU, Canada, Japan and Australia, so due to concerns about its side effects, we don’t recommend it at NakedPoppy.

What Ingredients Are Good for Hyperpigmentation?

These clean ingredients are winners for treating hyperpigmentation and brightening skin.

Vitamin C

Really, what does vitamin C not do? It’s a powerful antioxidant, meaning it defends against and repairs cellular damage. It also synthesizes collagen and serves as an anti-inflammatory, says Parenti — and is also a powerful brightener. Vitamin C can be found in skincare products under many names, such as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. You can find it alongside skin barrier-strengthening ceramides in Indie Lee Daily Vitamin Infusion.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid, a type of alpha hydroxy acid, is the jack of all trades. “It acts as an exfoliant by accelerating epidermal cell turnover and smoothing skin and a brightener by inhibiting tyrosinase and suppressing melanin,” says Parenti. “An added bonus is that it’s a potent humectant and increases hydration.” You can find it in exfoliating toners, serums, and even moisturizers (thanks to its hydrating properties). 

Kojic Acid

Unlike hydroxy acids, which typically exfoliate skin, kojic acid (derived from fermented mushrooms) has one job: It’s a tyrosinase inhibitor. “It is used as a brightening ingredient for hyperpigmented skin conditions such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” says King. Parenti, for her part, considers it the underdog of brightening ingredients.

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a winner for treating inflammatory-related dark spots, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma. “It’s extremely gentle and is the safest alternative for women who are pregnant,” says Parenti. “It’s also highly antibacterial and will help to address a multitude of pregnancy-related issues, including hormonal acne.” It’s known as a natural alternative to hydroquinone and should be your go-to if you’re also dealing with breakouts and rosacea. You can find azelaic acid paired with lactic acid — so, two heavy-hitting brightening ingredients — in Maya Chia The Refresh Mint Resurfacing Moisture Mask.

Arbutin

Both King and Parenti are fans of arbutin, which is a tyrosinase inhibitor derived from the bearberry plant (though much of it produced these days is synthetic). “It’s safe and gentle, and can be used twice a day and with other brightening ingredients such as vitamin C and kojic acid,” says Parenti. “It’s particularly effective at reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”

Retinoids

Retinoids (the umbrella term for prescription-strength retinoids, over-the-counter retinol, and other related molecules) is a class of vitamin A derivatives that do it all. Retinol fades dark spots in two key ways. “By accelerating epidermal cell turnover, over-pigmented cells make their way up the epidermis so they can be sloughed off,” says Parenti. “Smoothing texture in addition to this acceleration increases and enhances the product penetration and performance of brightening ingredients.”

You can find a clean retinoid in Maya Chia The Straight A Serum, or opt for rosehip seed oil. “It’s high in trans-retinoic acid, the natural form of Vitamin A,” she says. It’s also the hero ingredient in the NakedPoppy Revitalize Organic Facial Oil.

Don’t forget: When you take your 3-min NakedPoppy assessment, you get automatic recommendations for perfect-for-you makeup and skincare to address any skin concerns, hyperpigmentation included.

How Long Does It Take Dark Spots to Fade?

Unfortunately, don’t expect overnight results. “I would recommend treating for up to three months,” says King. While certain in-office procedures can help speed the process even further, dark spots are often best dealt with gradually. “If you are not content with the amount of improvement you have experienced after three months of diligent sun avoidance and protection and topical treatments, then it is reasonable to see a dermatologist,” says King.

It also helps to manage your expectations accordingly. Basically, fading dark spots is a process — and a long one at that. “I often prepare my clients to expect a 50-75% reduction,” she says. “I never guarantee 100%.”

Even so, taking the right steps, like being diligent about sun protection and using brightening ingredients, will go a long way to fading dark spots far faster than they’d ever disappear on their own. 

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References

[1]  Regular sunscreen use can actually reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone:

https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(15)00990-1/abstract