How to Use Acids in Skincare for Healthier Skin

Acid? For skin? Sounds a little suspect. But in fact, acids are a staple for healthy skin and one of the fastest ways to get smooth, radiant, even-toned skin — and they’re not as irritating as you might think. 

Acids are essential because your skin can only handle so much self-maintenance. “Naturally, your skin undergoes constant renewal, and around every 28 days all cells are turned over as the most superficial cells are replaced by new ones,” says NakedPoppy research scientist Marisa Plescia. “Leftover dead skin cells on the surface of the skin can leave skin dull, flaky, and dry, and can even clog pores leading to breakouts.”

That’s where those acids come in. Some can help remove that buildup of dead skin cells and improve cellular turnover — meaning they serve as the clean-up crew for the surface of your skin. And that can have an impact on nearly every aspect of your skin. “They can help with improving texture and tone, blemishes, and excess oil, decongesting pores, calming redness, increasing hydration, fading discoloration, and improving overall skin health,” says NakedPoppy skin specialist Tara Parenti.

Got all that? Just in case, here’s your cheat sheet:

• Acids can do a lot of different things, such as smooth texture, brighten, and hydrate
• Alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids (AHA and BHA) are two popular classes of exfoliating acids
• Start slow with exfoliating acids, rinse with cool water, and always follow with sunscreen
• Other acids, like hyaluronic and kojic acids, offer many benefits beyond exfoliation
• The ideal acid for you depends on your skin type and concerns — as always, take the NakedPoppy assessment for your perfect match

With that in mind, let’s take a look at the different types, and why they matter.

The different types of exfoliating acids

When you think “acid,” it’s probably this kind that comes to mind. Alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids are two types of chemical exfoliants, meaning their primary purpose is to dissolve dead skin cells. Here’s how.

Alpha hydroxy acids

Alpha hydroxy acids’ claim to fame is that they exfoliate skin — and they do it well. “They do so by loosening the intercellular glue that holds dead skin cells together, aiding in skin shedding and the renewal of healthy skin cells,” says Parenti. They’re largely derived from natural sources or fermentation, such as sugar cane, root vegetables, and fruits.

Glycolic acid might be the best-known AHA out there. “It helps improve tone, smooth texture, and improve moisture retention,” says Parenti. Also popular is lactic acid, which can be less irritating than glycolic acid and therefore a better option for sensitive skin. It’s also a natural hydrator. And lest that might make it seem less potent in any way, “studies show that treatment with 12% lactic acid resulted in increased skin firmness and thickness and clinical improvement in skin smoothness and in the appearance of lines and wrinkles,” says Plescia. [1] 

That’s why you can find it in everything from masks to antioxidant serums, like Ere Perez Quandong Green Booster Serum.

Beta hydroxy acids

Beta hydroxy acids are a small group — in skincare, it’s usually just salicylic acid. It’s oil-soluble, so it can sink deeper into skin to get the job done. “As an acne treatment, salicylic acid can penetrate into the pores and help remove the buildup of dead skin cells and oil, which can lead to an acne breakout,” says Plescia. And it’s been around for thousands of years, thanks to its natural source of willow bark. [2] 

You can find it in Odacité Blue Aura Cleansing Water.

Polyhydroxy acids

A cousin of alpha hydroxy acids, “polyhydroxy acids, such as gluconolactone, are increasingly also becoming popular in skincare, as they’re often better tolerated by the skin because of their larger molecular size,” says Plescia. 

You can find this gentle giant paired with lactic acid in NakedPoppy Refresh Foaming Cleanser, which leaves skin smooth, soft, and clean.

How to use exfoliating acids

First, don’t rush into it. If you’re new to alpha hydroxy acids, “start off once a week after cleansing and then build up as skin acclimates and becomes more tolerant, never exceeding the recommended usage,” says Parenti. Then, listen to your skin: If it starts to burn or feel uncomfortable — a step further than tingly — then rinse it off with cool water and take that as a cue to slow down your usage. 

If you know your skin tends to be sensitive, acids are still a go with a few precautions. Both Parenti and Plescia recommend doing a patch test first. 24 hours before you want to use it, “test the product on a small area of your skin — for example, on the neck area — prior to use,” says Plescia. No reaction? You’re good to go. (If you feel burning or pain, we don’t recommend using it.)

Also, if you’re using alpha hydroxy acids, using sunscreen is extra-important. “The sun can make inflammation, irritation, and redness worse,” says Plescia. “Additionally, many studies have demonstrated that UV light combined with AHA-associated peeling leads to more serious skin damage and skin sensitivity.” [3] Not surprisingly, it’s best to avoid that.

The non-exfoliating acids

Acids aren’t just for exfoliation. In fact, there are a whole host of acids that do everything from hydrate skin, like hyaluronic acid, to even out tone, such as kojic acid. “The naming of acid for all these compounds are based on their chemical structure and its properties,” says Plescia. “These include hyaluronic acid, ferulic acid, ascorbic acid, and azelaic acid.” Basically, they’re called “acids” because of their structure — and not because of their function. These are a few of the most common:

Hyaluronic acid

You might already know and love this humectant, which is known for its ability to hold up to 1000 times its weight in water. In helping to draw hydration into skin, it can give it a plumper appearance and keep it from looking lax and generally dehydrated.

Kojic acid

Want a more even skin tone? Look no further. A byproduct of fermentation of rice and fungi, “kojic acid inhibits pigment production,” explains Parenti. For that reason, it’s your best bet for treating pigmentation concerns, from post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation to melasma. 

Azelaic acid

Famously safe, “azelaic acid is commonly used to treat acne and also helps to limit melanin production by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase,” says Plescia. Translation: It can help address acne and post-acne marks in one fell swoop. You can find it paired with lactic acid in Maya Chia The Refresh Mint Resurfacing Moisture Mask, which gently reveals radiant skin.

Ultimately, the right acid for you largely depends on your skin type and concerns. Fortunately, when you take the 3-min NakedPoppy assessment, you’ll automatically get matched with the ideal skincare products for you, acids included. Brighter skin is in your future.

Get “shockingly accurate” clean beauty picks. Take your beauty assessment.

Shop the story:

• Maya Chia The Refresh Mint – Resurfacing Moisture Mask 🌿
• Ere Perez Quandong Green Booster Serum 💚
• Odacité Blue Aura Cleansing Water 💦
• NakedPoppy Refresh Foaming Cleanser ✨