Most recently updated 1/12/21

In some ways, your skin is like a newborn: It can’t verbalize exactly what it wants, so instead it just makes a big fuss. In terms of your facial skin, that can mean dryness, breakouts, redness, or some combination of the above — turning your skincare routine into a not-so-fun guessing game.

That’s where your skin type comes in handy. It basically provides the blueprint to the habits and products that’ll work best for you — assuming you’re working with the correct skin type. But many people accidentally misdiagnose their skin type. It’s common to think you have dry skin when really, it’s dehydrated, or to assume that since you had breakouts through college, your skin is oily.

However, there are some simple ways to accurately identify your true skin type, which we’ll get to below.

The only other thing to consider? Other factors, such as your environment or hormonal changes, can mess with the skin type you were born with, adding another dimension to how your skin looks. However, understanding your genetic skin type as your baseline and accounting for those environmental variables too can help give you healthy skin. 

Here, your guide to finding your skin type.

Determining Your Genetic Skin Type

First up, let’s talk about your genetic skin type. It’s determined by — you guessed it — your genetics, and it doesn’t change.

“It’s determined by pore size, placement, and layout of pores on the face, as well as level and rate of oil production,” says NakedPoppy skin specialist Tara Parenti.

That said, you can balance and even correct it somewhat through cleansing and moisturizing, but otherwise it’s with you for good. For example, if you have larger pores, you can’t shrink their size — but you can minimize their appearance.

That brings us to our next step: Identifying your genetic skin type. All you have to do is ask yourself two questions:

  • What time of day do you see oil or shine?
  • Where on your face are your pores larger?

Normal Skin

It’s a common term in the beauty world… but who actually has normal skin? Very few, apparently — the very existence of the so-called “normal skin type” in adults, which means you have an equal balance of oil and water in skin, is debatable. 

“Once hormones take into effect and influence oil activity, it’s really rare for an adult to have a normal skin type,” says Parenti. Plus, once environmental skin conditions have an impact — more on that below — normal skin needs management of its own.

Oily Skin

If you notice oil or shine on skin in the morning — in some cases, even within an hour or two of cleansing — then you likely have oily skin. Same goes if you see larger pores on the majority of your face.

Every skin type has its challenges, and for oily skin, that often means congestion or blackheads. It requires more frequent exfoliation as well as astringent ingredients, meaning ingredients that reduce oil on skin (you can frequently find these in toners). 

A common misconception is that those with oily skin should only use oil-free products. That’s not actually the case, because in chemistry, opposites do not attract. Rather, the law of attraction states that like attracts like, and thus oil attracts oil — so using products with oil isn’t just okay. It’s actually recommended. 

“The skin needs oil to be balanced,” Parenti explains. “Using nutrient-dense plant oils that are biocompatible to the skin’s natural oil production can help heal, nourish, protect, and balance excess oil production by thinning sebum and even providing antibacterial effects, preventing blemishes.”For oily skin, she recommends reaching for oils high in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids (linolenic acid and linoleic acid, respectively), such as rosehip seed oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, and poppy seed oil — all of which, incidentally, are in the NakedPoppy Revitalize Organic Facial Oil.

Combination Skin

If your oil and shine peaks in the afternoon and your larger pores are primarily located in the T-zone (think your forehead, nose, and chin), then you’re working with combination skin.

It’s the most common skin type, according to Parenti, and gives you more versatility in the products you use, since your skin may skew oilier or drier. Let your skin guide you here: If it seems dry, make sure you’re moisturizing. If it looks shinier than usual, astringent, e.g. drying, ingredients can help balance it out.

You may find that your combination skin’s needs change depending on the weather, hormones, or your diet, so don’t be hesitant to switch it up as needed. For instance, “try foaming cleanser and lightweight moisturizer in the hot months, milky cleanser and medium weight moisturizer in the colder, dry months,” says Parenti.

Dry Skin

If you have minimal oil and shine 24/7 as well as small, barely visible pores, your skin is dry.

Dry skin means that your skin lacks oil; the sebaceous glands are on the small side, which limits their production of oil, says Parenti. What often gets confusing is that the environmental wear and tear of the day — such as sweat, makeup, moisturizer, and oxidized sunscreen — can often masquerade as nighttime oil, dissuading those with dry skin from treating their skin properly. 

Your skin will likely be happiest using milky or creamy cleansers.

Sensitive Skin

There are three criteria that can help determine genetically sensitive skin:

  • Do you have a family history of eczema, asthma, or hay fever allergies?
  • Do you have a tendency towards redness? 
  • Do you blush or burn easily? 

If you answered yes to one of the above, you might have sensitive skin, which means you may have a “more easily triggered inflammatory response with a higher level of histamine in the body,” says Parenti. Translation: You’re just more prone to inflammatory skin conditions and disorders like eczema or rosacea. Parenti advises avoiding any known inflammatory triggers, for example processed foods or synthetic fragrances. If you want to exfoliate, you’ll do best with gentle skin-resurfacing ingredients like enzymes, lactic acid, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, and polyhydroxy acids rather than scrubs. And anything that supports your skin barrier health is always a good idea.

Understanding Your Environmental Skin Type

Once you have your genetic skin type in hand, your next step is to figure out what other factors are influencing the state of your skin; Parenti refers to these as environmental skin conditions. Think of them as all the additional influences on your genetic skin type. Some, like aging, are inevitable, while others, like dehydration, are both preventable and delightfully easy to address.

Dehydrated Skin

Any genetic skin type can become dehydrated if it doesn’t get or retain enough water. (Dry skin is the genetic skin type that describes a lack of oil, whereas dehydrated skin lacks water.) 

It’s characterized by tightness, noticeable dryness and flaking, and physical discomfort, like an increase in stinging, burning, and itching — and can exacerbate the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. “It’s influenced by genetics, medication, weather, air quality, improper product usage, and over-exfoliation,” says Parenti, who recommends adding more hydrating ingredients (hyaluronic acid is a popular one) as well as drinking enough water throughout the day.

Sensitized Skin

Sensitive skin is like the gluten allergy of the skincare world: Many people think they have it. 

But what’s more likely is that reactive skin has been sensitized — meaning external factors, such as dry winter air or overwashing skin, have made your skin more sensitive over time. “Characterized by moderate to extreme dehydration, sensitized skin entails compromised barrier function,” explains Parenti. “Any skin type can become environmentally sensitized.” If you experience redness, stinging, burning, or any other signs of inflammation, she recommends temporarily suspending exfoliation and moisturizing regularly.

Mature Skin

Caused by a combination of genetics, sun exposure, and your overall lifestyle, skin matures as we move through life. The key changes include the formation of fine lines and wrinkles, slowdown in cell turnover, and the gradual loss of elasticity, hydration, fat volume, and collagen. 

The good news, according to Parenti? Sunscreen can go a long way in slowing these changes, as can moisturizer, retinol, and skincare high in antioxidants.

Hyperpigmentation

Often appearing as dark spots or patches, “hyperpigmentation can be caused by sun damage, hormones, or scarring,” says Parenti. All of the above lead pigment-producing cells to create an abnormal amount of pigment. Brightening ingredients, such as vitamin C and kojic acid, can interfere with the pigment production process, while gentle exfoliants (we’re fans of the Maya Chia Refresh Mint Resurfacing Moisture Mask) can slough off discolored skin cells.

Hormonal Acne

Dealing with breakouts long after graduation? This is adult acne, also known as hormonal acne, and it can consist of papular, pustular, and cystic acne. “It’s inflammatory in nature and comes and goes in the same spots — think cheeks, jawline, and chin,” says Parenti. 

While it’s largely influenced by hormones, diet and lifestyle also play a role. Salicylic acid (including natural sources, like willow bark) and retinol can help.

Ultimately, while your skin type is largely dictated by genetics and your environment, you can still play a big role. Identify it correctly and adjust your products accordingly (which, by the way, we can help with!) will go a long way in helping you maintain healthy, balanced skin.

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