Updated 08.31.22

Did you know: A single step in your skincare routine could clear, brighten, smooth, and hydrate your complexion? And it’s not too good to be true. Exfoliation is just as important as cleansing and moisturizing, and for good reason. It’s one of those steps in your skincare routine that can go above and beyond, in terms of both ease and payoff. (Think: low risk, high reward.)

That’s because exfoliation is one of those universal equalizers in skincare: Anyone can do it, and pretty much everyone benefits from it. Seriously: “Exfoliation helps to stimulate cell turnover, decongest pores, fade discoloration, boost hydration, destroy breakout-causing bacteria, and enhance the performance of other products in your home-care routine,” says NakedPoppy skin specialist Tara Parenti. (Whew.)

Here’s your cheat sheet for exfoliation:

  • Exfoliation removes dead skin cells, which can contribute to dullness and a rough texture
  • Chemical exfoliants un-glue the bonds between dead skin cells to remove them
  • Physical exfoliants use an abrasive or gritty texture to slough off dead skin cells
  • If you’re a newbie: Start off with less frequent exfoliation and gentle exfoliants
  • Slow down if you notice pain, burning, or redness

So, if you’re not exfoliating on a regular basis — or even if you are, but want to get even more benefits — here’s what you need to know.

What is exfoliation?

First, let’s start with the reason for exfoliation in the first place. “Around every 28 days, all cells are turned over as the most superficial cells are replaced by new ones,” says NakedPoppy research scientist Marisa Plescia. “These old, dead skin cells make up the top layer of your skin, the stratum corneum.” And though they eventually shed on their own, they occasionally need a little nudge.

That’s where exfoliation comes in. It provides that nudge, removing the dead skin cells through two methods — more on that in a bit. And this can have big consequences for skin. “A build-up of dead skin cells can create the appearance of a rough, uneven skin surface, leading to poor light reflection and diminished radiance,” says Plescia. “As you get older, cell renewal and cell desquamation also slows down, so exfoliating can bring back that youthful appearance.”

Chemical Exfoliants versus Physical Exfoliants

Not all exfoliants are created equal. Chemical exfoliants are a term for acids, which work by dissolving or unglue-ing the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. Physical exfoliants, on the other hand, work by manually rubbing off the dead skin cells. (For comparison, think of how sandpaper smooths wood — but gentler for your skin, of course.)

Their benefits differ slightly. “Physical exfoliation produces that instant glow and smooth, refined skin, while chemical exfoliation can have more long-term results and help with more skin concerns, such as uneven skin tone,” says Plescia. One option that combines the best of both worlds is gommage, French for erasing. Gommage has fruit enzymes (a chemical exfoliant), but it dries to film that you can rub off with your fingers (physical exfoliation). Try it in Odacité Bioactive Rose Gommage.

It’s important to know which kind of exfoliant you’re using to ensure you’re only applying one at any given time. “Many view exfoliation only as something that scrubs the skin, not realizing that there always may be chemical resurfacing ingredients in other formulations they are using,” explains Parenti. “This can lead to over-exfoliation.” That can disturb your microbiome and your skin barrier in the process, so we recommend choosing one type of exfoliant and sticking with it.

Here’s how each type of exfoliant can benefit skin.

Chemical Exfoliants

As we mentioned, chemical exfoliation uses acids, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, and citric acid, to remove dead skin cells. And, despite their name, “most acids have natural sources, such as citrus fruits,” says Plescia. Fruit enzymes, often from pineapple and papaya, also offer gentle chemical exfoliation, too.

Not all chemical exfoliants work the same way. For example, “lactic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid favorite, not only helps to resurface the skin but is a humectant, too,” says Parenti. That means it actually hydrates skin. It also works to even out skin tone by limiting pigment production. It’s one of the star ingredients in Maya Chia The Refresh Mint Resurfacing Moisture Mask, where it works alongside azelaic acid to nourish and brighten skin. It’s popular in serums, too.

Then, there’s salicylic acid. It’s keratolytic, meaning “it actually penetrates the follicle and eats away dead skin cell build-up along the epithelial lining,” says Parenti. It also has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, and can regulate the overproduction of sebum; look for willow bark extract, which serves as a natural source.

And gluconolactone, a polyhydroxy acid, is often better tolerated by the skin because of its larger molecular size, says Plescia. You can find it paired with lactic acid in NakedPoppy Refresh Foaming Cleanser for gentle smoothing power.

Physical exfoliants

With physical exfoliation, “small particles or even textured particles work as abrasives to mechanically remove these dead skin cells and debris,” says Plescia. It shows relatively immediate results, due to the act of scrubbing off the dead skills leading to smoother skin.” These include your scrubs with crushed nut shells, seeds, and even sugar for that grit. Face brushes fall under here, too.

The drawback is that some, like those crushed nut shells and pits, can be a little too abrasive, leading to microtears in the skin barrier and leading to an increase in transepidermal water loss. “If you’re concerned about harshness and potentially small microtears in the skin, try to avoid exfoliating ingredients that can be jagged, such as shells and fruit pits,” says Plescia. Instead, go for rounded versions, such as sustainable microbeads, which are gentler on skin. Odacité Jojoba Bead Exfoliant, for instance, smooths skin with biodegradable beads made of jojoba wax. NakedPoppy vets all products to ensure they’re gentle on skin.

How to exfoliate skin safely

First, start slow and be gentle. “You can always build up your exfoliation frequency, given your skin can tolerate it,” says Parenti. “As for how often to exfoliate, the right frequency — nightly, three times a week, or once a week — largely depends on the type of exfoliant you’re using, so go by the instructions for the specific product.

In most cases, exfoliation should happen after cleansing and before serum and moisturizer. (In removing the dead skin cells, exfoliating also clears the way for those active ingredients to better penetrate skin — win-win!) It’s also best saved for your nighttime skincare routine, since doing in the A.M. could leave skin sensitive to sunlight.

When you’re exfoliating, tune into your skin. Feeling some sensations? That might be normal. “Light and tolerable itching, prickling, stinging and healthy visible blood circulation — think slightly red skin — are generally normal characteristics we see and feel,” says Parenti. But if your skin is beet-red and you feel a burning sensation, rinse your skin ASAP.

If you do ever experience the latter, take that as a cue to scale back the frequency of exfoliation. “A compromised skin barrier is allowed to repair and heal when you temporarily remove exfoliation from the home care routine,” says Parenti. Stick with cleansing, moisturizing, and sunscreen until your skin starts to feel more comfortable after cleansing, then slowly incorporate exfoliation back into your routine.

Starting your exfoliation routine may be a little touch and go until you find your groove, but once you do, the bright, radiant skin might just be worth it.

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