It’s not an overstatement to say CBD seems to be *everywhere* these days. You can find it in tinctures, baked goods, and now your topical skincare products, where it supposedly offers some sort of benefit — although the exact details tend to be hazy. What exactly is it doing for your skin, and why might you need it? The answer is that the evidence is still growing for this ingredient (which, by the way, won’t get you high) but the current signs point to its ability to soothe and protect skin.

Once you decide you do want to go all-in on CBD, the next step is to find the right one — that is, a version that’s clean, vetted, and brimming with the real thing. Ready for your deep dive? Keep on scrolling.

What is CBD?

“Cannabinoids are compounds that are naturally found in the hemp plant, Cannabis sativa,” says NakedPoppy research scientist Marisa Plescia. “Cannabidiol, otherwise commonly known as CBD, is just one of many cannabinoids and accounts for up to 40% of the plant’s extracts.” To put things into perspective, the compound tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), which gives marijuana its psychoactive abilities, is another type of cannabinoid — and, as Plescia said, there are many.

Unlike THC, however, “CBD does not cause a ‘high’ by itself.” A report from the World Health Organization states that, “In humans, CBD exhibits no effects indicative of any abuse or dependence potential.” [1] Also good to keep in mind: It’s *not* the same thing as hemp seed extract or oil. “Hemp seed oil or extract is extracted from the seeds of the hemp plant,” says Plescia. “It contains fatty acids and other nutritional antioxidants, such as vitamins D and B, but it contains no THC and little to no CBD.” (CBD, on the other hand, comes from the stalks, leaves, and flowers of the hemp plant, not the seeds.)

Will hemp seed oil moisturize? Sure. Will it offer the same benefits as CBD? Unlikely. To be sure you’re getting the real thing, look for either “​​Cannabis sativa (hemp) flower/leaf/stem extract” or “cannabidiol” on the ingredient list.

All CBD is not created equal, either. There are three different types on the market:

  • Full-spectrum CBD: contains all compounds of the cannabis plant, including a very low or non-detectable level of THC (THC is known for its anti-nausea, anti-inflammatory, pain-relieving effects — which explains its role in medicine)
  • Broad-spectrum CBD: contains several compounds of the cannabis plant, but not THC
  • CBD isolate: contains a single, isolated cannabidiol

Having multiple cannabinoids can give you the most benefits — for more on that, keep reading.

What are the benefits of CBD?

So, there’s an obvious question: What do cannabinoids even do, and why should you care? Let’s start with the body’s endocannabinoid system (ECS). “The ECS is a complex cell-signaling system thought to play a role in regulating many body functions and processes, such as sleep, memory, appetite, and mood,” says Plescia. “Endocannabinoids are produced naturally in your body — and the cannabinoids found in hemp are thought to act similarly and bind to ECS receptors in the body.” For your skin, the ECS can help regulate various functions, which is why researchers guess that topical cannabinoids, such as CBD, might be beneficial.

So far, Plescia says, “The potential benefits of CBD topically in skincare are highly related to the anti-inflammatory and even antioxidant properties to improve skin barrier function.” Cannabinoids, including (but not limited to!) CBD, have been found to have anti-inflammatory properties, and can even help regulate the skin’s inflammatory response. [2] Early research has even found topical CBD to be capable of reducing inflammation in patients with atopic contact dermatitis. [3]

Then, there’s its antioxidant potential. “Recent in-vitro studies of CBD showed that CBD was able to balance the oxidative stress response resulting from UVB rays,” says Plescia. [4] “This would potentially reduce the amount of reactive oxidative stress in the skin cells and lead to a variety of skin benefits, including skin barrier function.” As we’ve covered before, all roads lead back to the skin barrier — so taking good care of it via CBD could have a ripple effect of benefits.

Is CBD a clean ingredient?

“CBD comes from the hemp plant, and therefore is naturally derived,” says Plescia. So, yes, CBD itself is clean. However, the U.S. regulations on CBD are fuzzy, so the quality and quantity of CBD you’re getting in a CBD product is left largely up to the brand to determine and share with shoppers.

And that could have some implications, as “quality is essential to CBD and ensuring it is a ‘clean’, safe, and potent ingredient,” says Plescia. “Extraction methods of the CBD are extremely important to ensure that the CBD is a ‘clean’ source, since the extraction methods can include solvents, like toluene.”

The ideal method is called CO2 extraction, which uses — you guessed it — CO2 rather than, say, a solvent like toluene or hexane. This results in a high-quality formula. The brand should also offer their Certificate of Analysis (the CBD line we carry on NakedPoppy does!), which is confirmed by an independent third-party that the formula contains what it says it does. It’s not a perfect system, but that’s where we are at the moment.

Are there any risks to using CBD?

So far, research suggests that CBD products are generally safe and have very limited side effects. [5] In fact, the FDA just approved a prescription medication with CBD to treat epilepsy. However, keep in mind that the research on the topical use of CBD is still in the works. “As with any skincare product or new ingredient, always first patch-test to ensure no side effects — and discontinue use if any irritation, redness, or itchiness occurs,” says Plescia. Also, to be cautious while more research develops, pause using CBD while pregnant or breastfeeding.

How should you incorporate CBD into your routine?

You can find CBD in serums and moisturizers. We’re fans of Prima, a brand that prioritizes transparency in their extraction methods and manufacturing processes to ensure you’re getting *exactly* what’s promised. (For example, it’s easy to look up each product’s Certificate of Analysis — but don’t worry, we’ve already done that work for you.) You’ll find broad-spectrum CBD — which, as a reminder, contains CBD as well as other cannabinoids, with the exception of THC — throughout the brand’s products.

For starters, Prima’s Enlightenment Niacinamide Serum pairs 100 mg of CBD with niacinamide, a versatile ingredient that works to brighten and nourish skin. And if you’re in the market for a moisturizer, consider The Afterglow Cream. It offers a blend of 500 mg of CBD with four sizes of hyaluronic acid to deliver hydration to every layer of skin — along with an adaptogenic complex that protects skin throughout the day. Finally, you’ll also find 300 mg of CBD in the Night Magic Facial Oil, where it works alongside prickly pear and moringa oils to deeply moisturize and calm skin while you snooze. By the way: None of Prima’s products contain added fragrance, so they have a scent consistent with CBD in case you’re sensitive to that sort of thing. 

Consider it the easiest way to introduce CBD into your routine and experience the ~buzz~ for yourself.

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References

[1] A report from the World Health Organization states that, “In humans, CBD exhibits no effects indicative of any abuse or dependence potential.”

https://www.who.int/medicines/access/controlled-substances/5.2_CBD.pdf

[2] Cannabinoids, including (but not limited to!) CBD, have been found to have anti-inflammatory properties, and can even help regulate the skin’s inflammatory response.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7736837/

[3] Early research has even found topical CBD capable of reducing inflammation in patients with atopic contact dermatitis.

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29632236/

[4] “Recent in-vitro studies of CBD showed that CBD was able to balance the oxidative stress response resulting from UVB rays,” says Plescia.

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31881765/

[5] So far, research suggests that CBD products are generally safe and have very limited side effects. 

https://www.mayoclinicproceedings.org/article/S0025-6196(19)30007-2/fulltext