Most recently updated 1/12/21

To shave or not to shave? That used to be the question. But today, going hair-free simply isn’t that cut and dry. Between waxing, electrolysis, and laser hair removal, we can now shed unwanted facial, arm pit, bikini, or leg hair for a few weeks, or choose a smooth that lasts a lifetime. 

Electrolysis and laser hair removal have grown in popularity over the last decade for exactly this reason. Both procedures are known for longer-term hair removal — targeting hair follicles located beneath the skin’s surface to curb hair growth at its root. 

So what’s the difference between these two procedures? Is one more painful or less expensive than the other? Are they considered “clean beauty“? (If you’re into clean beauty, don’t miss our 3-minute NakedPoppy assessment.) What, if any, are the side effects? Read on to get the scoop.

First, all about electrolysis

How does electrolysis work?

Electrolysis is the only FDA-approved method of permanent hair removal today [1]. A licensed, board-certified dermatologist or electrologist should perform the procedure, which involves inserting a probe into the hair follicle and sending an electric current through it, damaging the follicle enough to prevent new hair growth.

Is it considered clean?

Yes! With electrolysis, there’s no use of harmful chemicals or toxins on the skin. The procedure itself likely won’t contribute to any long term health problems, either. Clean all around.

Is it effective for everyone and all hair/skin types?

Yes. According to the American Electrology Association, electrolysis is effective for people with any skin type, skin color, hair type, and hair color [2].  Electrolysis is also suitable for any area of the body — including the eyebrows.

How many sessions does it take?

Most people require several treatments to achieve permanent hair removal with electrolysis. That’s because our skin has multiple follicles for each hair, and dormant follicles might start to grow between sessions (in other words, our hair grows in cycles).  But follow-up sessions – every week or other week for a few weeks – will eliminate hair in the area 100%.

Larger surfaces, like your legs, will call for several longer sessions to get the job done. And if you’re looking to remove coarse hair (around your bikini line, for example), you’ll be looking at more sessions as well. Although this is pretty rare, some women require up to 30 treatments! 

But once you’re done, you’re done. After the hair has been removed there’s no upkeep or annual maintenance appointments necessary.

Are there any side effects?

If not done properly, electrolysis can potentially damage the follicle and cause inflammation. In a few rare cases, people have experienced scarring or infection from unsterilized needles. When you go to a board-certified dermatologist, you greatly reduce the chance of these risks. 

Be honest, how painful is it?

We wouldn’t exactly call it pleasant. Remember that electrolysis inserts a fine probe into each hair follicle and sends an electrical current through it. That said, most people experience a bit of discomfort, described as a stinging or pricking sensation, as if you were getting a tattoo. You might want to take a pain reliever an hour before the treatment and to apply ice following the session.

How much aftercare is involved?

Very little. Although your skin may feel irritated or appear slightly red, these symptoms usually subside in a few hours. (Although a dab of Ere Perez Moringa All-Beauty Crème, filled with soothing botanical oils, might help speed things up.) Most people get back to their daily activities right after the procedure.

How much does it cost?

Bummer alert – most insurance won’t cover electrolysis hair removal, because it’s a cosmetic procedure. But, a 30-minute session targeting a small area can be really reasonably priced around $45. It all depends on the area, the type of hair being treated, and how many sessions your doctor thinks you might need. Ask ahead of time to get a better sense of the total price. 

As mentioned, electrolysis is the only hair removal method endorsed by the U. S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for permanent hair removal. But, according to the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, laser hair removal is currently the more popular option in the United States [3].

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Now, let’s get into laser hair removal

How does laser hair removal work? 

Laser hair removal uses mild radiation via high-heat lasers on hair follicles. The laser emits a light that’s absorbed by the pigment in the hair. The light energy converts to heat, which then damages the hair follicles to slow down hair growth. 

The lasers quickly target coarse, dark hair and can treat several hairs at once, which means that small areas can be treated in minutes. While laser hair removal permanently diminishes hair growth, it doesn’t eliminate unwanted hair forever.  Hair might still grow in, but it’ll come in finer and lighter in color than before.

Is it considered clean?

Laser hair removal, if done without numbing cream, is considered clean.  If you choose to use numbing cream, please note that its harmful chemicals can’t be called clean. 

The procedure itself is also safe for long-term health. 

Is it effective for all hair and skin types?

This procedure works best on people with light skin and dark hair because the laser likes a contrast to target dark colors. New hair growth tends to be less dense than before, and the new hair is often a few shades lighter than the original hair. 

How many sessions does it take?

Generally, four to eight treatments are needed, spaced out about a month apart. After you’re happy with your slower hair growth, you’ll likely want to go in once or twice a year for a maintenance appointment.  

Are there any side effects?

There are more potential side effects with laser hair removal than electrolysis, which include: blisters, inflammation, swelling, irritation, pigmentation changes, redness, swelling. Using lasers on your skin may lead to burning or slight pigmentation changes, but those effects are usually temporary, not long term. But again, you can reduce your risk by scheduling the procedure with a fully trained, certified laser technician working under the direction of a board-certified healthcare provider.

Lasers can also increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, which is why you should avoid sun exposure right after the procedure. People having laser treatment should also avoid sunlight for 6 weeks before treatment to prevent discoloration of the tanned skin as well. And, of course, you should apply a clean sunscreen, such as Unsun Mineral Tinted Face Sunscreen, on a daily basis.

If you’re looking to do laser hair removal on your eyebrows, you’ll need to wear protective eye shields and keep your eyes closed for the entire treatment to avoid any laser light contact with your eyes.

Be honest, is it painful?

Laser removal has been described as a burning rubber band snapping against your skin. Those with coarse and dark hair tend to feel more burn. Laser hair removal is considered less painful than electrolysis since it’s a faster process and doesn’t require addressing each follicle individually. 

While there are numbing creams available, according to the FDA, the use of skin-numbing products in laser hair removal has led to reports of serious and life-threatening side effects that occurred after a numbing agent was applied to large areas of the body. Instead, consider applying ice packs to alleviate any discomfort after the procedure. And if you’re really feeling the burn, you can ask your doctor to recommend over-the-counter pain relievers or a steroid cream.

How much aftercare is involved?

Laser hair removal has little recovery time. You can get back to normal activities immediately. 

How much does it cost?

Each visit averages $200-$400, based on the size of the area being treated and the facility itself. So while laser hair removal is more expensive than electrolysis per session, it may require fewer sessions in total. 

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Here’s our quick recap: electrolysis vs. laser

So, which is right for you: electrolysis or laser? Here are some key points to help you make the decision. 

Electrolysis stops hair growth completely, while laser hair removal slows down – and thins hair – over the long run. Electrolysis works on any hair or skin type and laser works best on people with light skin and dark hair.

Both are considered clean for long term health. Electrolysis doesn’t use topical harmful chemicals on the skin, while laser hair removal is not categorized as clean if you choose to use numbing cream.

Electrolysis is considered more painful than laser hair removal. It may require more sessions than laser hair removal, but each session is cheaper. Laser hair removal is a faster, less painful process, but you’ll pay more for each session. 

Still unsure which method to choose? Ask your dermatologist what’s right for you. Because you are going to see a certified professional to reduce your risk of side effects, right? Right!

Get “shockingly accurate” clean beauty picks. Take your beauty assessment.

This post has been reviewed by Ilene Ruhoy, M.D., neurologist, and PhD in Environmental Toxicology.

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Interested in other beauty services like electrolysis and laser? Check out “Trend Alert: Micrnoneedling, Dermarolling, and Smoother Skin” and “Can We Please Talk About Botox?

References

  1. Electrolysis is the only FDA-approved method of permanent hair removal today: https://www.fda.gov/consumers/consumer-updates/removing-hair-safely
  2. Electrolysis works for people of any skin color, skin type, hair type, or hair color: http://www.electrology.com/faqs-about-permanent-hair-removal/
  3. Laser hair removal is the most popular permanent hair removal solution in the U.S.: https://www.asds.net/skin-experts/news-room