Chemical Sunscreens: What You Need to Know

Unless you’ve been living under the rock — in which case, you may not need to worry about SPF at all — you might have heard (or had your own) questions about chemical sunscreens. Lately, chemical sunscreens are having something of a reckoning. While they have some advantages, like being easier to blend and more lightweight than their mineral counterparts, chemical filters have been blamed for everything from harming coral reefs [1] to allergic reactions [2], and recent data showing that they might actually enter the bloodstream through skin has led to even more concern. [3]

The truth is a little more nuanced than that. However, as a clean beauty company, we tend to err on the side of caution — better safe than sorry — which is why we consider mineral-based formulas to be the only clean sunscreen on the shelf. Here, we dive into the truth behind chemical sunscreen filters and why you might not want them in something you’re slathering from head to toe.

What are chemical sunscreen filters?

If you check the active ingredient monograph on your bottle of SPF, you’ll find either chemical filters, mineral filters (titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide), or a combination of the two. “Chemical sunscreens use what are called organic UV filters, such as octocrylene, avobenzone, and octisalate,” says NakedPoppy research scientist Marisa Plescia. “These UV filters work by absorbing the UV radiation and dissipating these harmful photons of energy from the sun into heat energy, a less damaging energy for the skin.” Your skin then releases the heat.

Unlike chemical filters, the mineral ingredients sit on the surface of the skin. “They are also often called physical UV filters as they’re known to provide a physical barrier to reflect the UV radiation,” says Plescia. “The concept is only partially true, as they do also absorb some UV radiation — in addition to reflecting and  scattering UV rays.”

There are 14 chemical UV filters listed in the FDA Sunscreen Monograph. “The six most common are octocrylene, octisalate, avobenzone, homosalate, oxybenzone, and octinoxate,” says Plescia. However, some of these are largely being phased out, for reasons we’ll get to in a second. Meanwhile, other filters are already relatively obsolete. “Dioxybenzone, ensulizole, meradimate, padimate O, sulisobenzone, cinoxate, PABA, and tromaline are barely used,” she says.

Why is there cause for concern?

While chemical sunscreens do have certain advantages (more on those in a bit), there are two big reasons they’re becoming less popular than their mineral-based counterparts. Here’s what you need to know.

Personal safety

Fun fact: While the FDA isn’t exactly known for its enforcement of safety standards when it comes to the beauty realm, it does have a term called GRASE, or Generally Recognized as Safe and Effective. And, per the most current proposed updates to the FDA Sunscreen Monograph at publishing time, “the FDA proposes that it needs more safety information on 12 of the 14 chemical UV filters before considering them GRASE,” says Plescia. (What didn’t make the cut: PABA and tromaline, which, as we noted, aren’t used often anyway.)

That said: In 2019, the FDA Center for Drug Evaluation and Research released a report sharing the potential for these chemical UV filters to be absorbed into the bloodstream. “It found that this was above the proposed safety threshold,” says Plescia. While the evidence is far from conclusive, it still points to the link that the body does absorb chemical sunscreen filters to an extent.

FYI: Both titanium dioxide and iron oxide, the mineral filters, are considered GRASE by the FDA.

Environmental safety

Aside from personal concerns, “new regulations and bans are being passed from state and local governments concerning the usage of certain organic UV filters,” says Plescia. For instance, Hawaii’s state senate recently passed a bill that banned the sale, offer of sale, and distribution of sunscreen formulas with oxybenzone and octinoxate.

That’s because with some chemical filters, “there have been studies that potentially show damage to marine life, like coral reefs,” says Plescia. “For this reason, these chemical UV filters are less and less common and many products are being reformulated to no longer contain these ingredients.”

Why even use chemical sunscreen filters at all?

So, why do chemical sunscreen filters even exist anymore? Unfortunately, they tend to be the most user-friendly, easy-to-apply options. “With the chemical UV filters, there is little to no whitening effects, and the feel can often be lighter and less sticky,” says Plescia. “The mineral UV filters have a reputation for being whitening with often a blue or white cast, and also can be heavy on the skin.”

That said, every mineral sunscreen on NakedPoppy has been test-driven by our experts to make sure it’s easy to use.

The bottom line on chemical sunscreen filters

Clearly, the conversation around chemical versus mineral sunscreen filters is more nuanced than: chemical bad, mineral good. For example, it’s unclear whether chemical sunscreens being above the proposed safety threshold in the bloodstream is actually harmful, and in what way(s).

But we prefer to play it safe, especially since the clean, mineral SPFs — around which there is little health controversy — are only getting better and more elegant. For instance, Taos AER SPF 30 Broad Spectrum Mineral Sunscreen leaves skin with a smooth, matte finish using non-nano zinc oxide, while Suntegrity Impeccable Skin Mineral Matte Tinted Coverage has a tint that makes it easy to blend into deeper skin tones. Unsun’s Mineral Tinted Face Sunscreen even doubles as foundation, leaving skin dewy and fresh.

So, why risk it? With options like these, you can stay covered without compromising.

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Shop the Story:

• Taos AER SPF 30 Broad Spectrum Mineral Sunscreen 💧
• Suntegrity Impeccable Skin Mineral Matte Tinted Coverage ☀️
• Unsun Mineral Tinted Face Sunscreen ✨