Why Bakuchiol Makes for a Powerful Retinol Alternative

If you’re the sort of person who dedicates a shelf to their skincare products, then you might have already encountered bakuchiol, the crowd-pleasing active ingredient that’s become well-known (and well-loved!) as an alternative to retinol.

And if you take a more hands-off approach to your routine, no worries: For context, retinol is a form of vitamin A, or retinoic acid (which belongs to the class called retin-oids, meaning both prescription-only retinoic acid and its less powerful, over-the-counter forms); it’s known for its ability to speed skin cell turnover and boost collagen production, contributing to clearer, firmer skin and more even tone. However, certain retinols can work a little too well for newbies and sensitive types, potentially compromising the skin barrier and leaving skin red, flaky, and otherwise inflamed. (FYI: The NakedPoppy Renew Retinol Oil is very non-irritating — more on how we make that happen below!)

Here’s where bakuchiol comes in: It’s been found to compete with retinol, offering similar results as retinol without the need for an extended acclimation period, says NakedPoppy skin specialist Tara Parenti. Not only that, but the latest research has found that it’s a team player, too — and can help amp up results when paired with retinol in a single, super-effective formula.

With that, here’s what you need to know about this wonder ingredient…and why it might be worth incorporating into your daily skincare routine, stat. 

What is bakuchiol?

For starters, “bakuchiol is a plant-based ingredient that’s derived from the seeds and leaves of the Babchi plant, or psoralea corylifolia,” says NakedPoppy research scientist Marisa Plescia. “This plant has been widely used in both Indian and Chinese medicine to treat a variety of diseases for centuries.”

Keep in mind, however, that bakuchiol isn’t a plant-based retinol, says Parenti. “It’s a plant-based alternative to retinol,” she says. It’s a small nuance, but an important one when you compare bakuchiol to botanical sources of vitamin A.

Bakuchiol versus retinol

Bakuchiol serves as a “functional analog” to retinol, meaning it has chemical, physical, biochemical, or pharmacological properties that are similar to retinol. [1] And, for your skin in particular, “bakuchiol has similar regulation of gene expression to retinol, which is the process from which a gene or the DNA instructs the synthesis of a functional product, such as protein,” Plescia says. In this case, they both direct the DNA in your skin to create more collagen, which is the structural protein in skin that serves as its internal scaffolding, keeping it firm and smooth.

Their similarities (which are backed by research and data!) don’t stop there. “Bakuchiol has been clinically proven to have similar results to retinol with better initial skin tolerance, including helping to combat the appearance of hyperpigmentation, even skin tone, and reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles and other signs of maturing skin — all with strong antioxidant and skin-soothing properties,” says Plescia. (Whew.) On top of that, she says, recent studies show promise for its ability to address breakouts and boost hydration, too.

The beauty of both retinol and bakuchiol is that they can address multiple skincare goals at once. That said, if you’re not sure where to start, we can help: Just take our simple, 3-minute beauty assessment to get recommendations personalized for your unique needs.

What’s the key difference between bakuchiol and retinol?

For one, retinol beginners may have to deal with an acclimation period known as facial retinization, in which skin gradually adjusts to its effects. “This can result in a two- to four-week period where the skin is inflamed, flaking, scaling, and sensitive,” says Parenti. As a result, you typically have to ease your way into it by using it once or twice per week, gradually increasing it over time. Bakuchiol, on the other hand, doesn’t come with the same potential side effects or need for an acclimation period.

That goes even for the most sensitive skin types. “There have been numerous studies of bakuchiol in terms of being well-tolerated with less irritation in comparison to retinol, including clinical studies on patients with sensitive skin and skin conditions such as rosacea and eczema,” says Plescia. [2]

On top of that, certain people just can’t use retinol. For instance, “experts advise against its usage among people who are pregnant,” says Parenti.

How to use bakuchiol in your routine

This is one ingredient you won’t want to rinse off. “You’ll see the most long-term correction by using bakuchiol in a leave-on product, such as a serum or moisturizer,” says Parenti. However! If you’re ready to swap out all your retinoids for bakuchiol, slow your roll; just because bakuchiol side-steps some of retinol’s drawbacks doesn’t mean you should quit the OG altogether if you don’t have to. Retinol, for its part, has decades of research proving its efficacy.

If anything, you can and should use them together, if you’re able — as in our new Renew Retinol Oil, which pairs them with nourishing, olive-based squalene and soothing bisabolol for a potent treatment. “Since there are some differences in how retinol and bakuchiol work, the ingredients are truly complementary and synergistic to help boost results,” says Plescia. “For example, studies have shown that in contrast to retinol, bakuchiol demonstrated high antioxidative efficacy.” [3] In other words, you get more skincare benefits packed in there.

Another advantage: While retinol tends to be unstable, bakuchiol seems to help offset that. In fact, “bakuchiol has also been studied to help protect the stability of retinol from degradation due to light or oxygen,” Plescia says. [4] What that ultimately means for you: A fresher — and therefore more effective — formula over time.

So, while bakuchiol does make for a fantastic alternative to retinol — especially if your skin can’t tolerate the real deal without discomfort — the “bakuchiol vs retinol” debate should be reframed as bakuchiol and retinol. They both bring incredible benefits to the table (not to mention some strategic perks) so why not make the most of them? Consider them the new BFFs in your skincare arsenal.

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