When it comes to dry skin, you might know the drill: Lay off harsh exfoliants, slather on nourishing moisturizers, and, of course, wear sunscreen. But sometimes, especially in Arctic-like conditions, parched skin can turn into something more, or even look a little different. Maybe it’s dry and also looks red, or has turned into a full-blown itch. Sound familiar? The good news is that it’s not just you. The bad news is that it could — could! — be eczema.

Also known as atopic dermatitis, eczema can be stubborn to treat, which is why it can become a chronic condition. And even if you haven’t had a capital-E eczema diagnosis, you could still be seeing (and feeling) the signs of it, depending on a number of factors.

Of course, only a board-certified dermatologist can diagnose eczema. But if you’re not sure what you’re working with, we’re here to break down the key differences between eczema and your usual dry skin, and when it might be time to visit a dermatologist. 

With that in mind, here’s what you need to know.

Your dry-skin cheat sheet:

  • Dry skin is often caused by low oil production, whereas eczema stems from inflammation
  • While dry skin comes and goes, eczema tends to be constant
  • For both, look to humectants and emollients to support the skin barrier
  • When in doubt, visit your dermatologist for a clear diagnosis

What makes eczema different from dryness?

“The two are commonly confused, but the main differentiator is inflammation,” says NakedPoppy skin specialist Tara Parenti. “That’s the marker.” 

One factor at play is filaggrin, an important skin protein that plays a critical role in barrier function. In fact, a 2006 study found that a lack of filaggrin, which stems from a genetic mutation, appears to drive skin inflammation by releasing certain immune cells — and, as a result, contributes to eczema [1]. “This genetic mutation results in inflamed, itchy, and flaking skin,” she says.

If you recall from our genetic skin types guide, meanwhile, one major cause of dry skin is underperforming sebaceous glands, which don’t produce as much sebum as they need to in order to keep skin moisturized. That may also have a genetic component — but overall it’s a different pathology than eczema, which stems from inherent dysfunction in your skin barrier. 

And, “although dry skin and eczema can present themselves similarly, dry skin is more dynamic while eczema can be a constant in your life,” says Plescia. “Dry skin can often be remedied easily with moisturizing, while eczema may require additional treatment.” Plus, eczema can lead to rashes elsewhere on various parts of the body.

What contributes to eczema?

First, as we mentioned, you could be genetically predisposed to eczema. In addition to genetic mutations that lead to an impaired skin barrier, you may also be prone to eczema “if your family has a genetic predisposition for dermatitis or even a history of asthma, hay fever, or allergies, which can put you at higher risk,” says Plescia. If you know you have sensitive skin, you may also be at a higher risk.

Other things can then trigger eczema and its flares. For instance, if you only notice signs of eczema in the winter months, you’re not alone — since environmental factors play a huge role in causing flares. In cold weather, “the lack of moisture in the air and indoor heating increases dehydration and leaves our skin barrier more vulnerable,” says Parenti. That leads to dry, itchy skin. 

Then, there’s your immune response. “If your skin comes into contact with an allergen or irritant to your skin, then this can trigger an immune response, a.k.a. inflammation, leading to eczema,” says Plescia.

Finally, as with so many things, there’s an emotional component. “Stress and other concerns such as anxiety and depression can raise cortisol levels in the body,” Plescia says. “Cortisol suppresses the immune system and can increase inflammation throughout the body — leading to potential eczema flare-ups.”

How to support eczema-prone skin

For both moisturizing dry skin, in doing so, supporting the skin barrier, turn to key moisturizing actives such as ceramides, fatty acids, humectants, and anti-inflammatories; Ere Perez Moringa All-Beauty Crème is packed with humectants, while the Revitalize Organic Facial Oil is brimming with fatty acid-rich botanicals. A great option for eczema (as well as general redness and itchiness) is colloidal oatmeal, since it both fortifies the skin barrier and quells inflammation. As always, check with your dermatologist before making any changes to your skincare routine for medical conditions like eczema.

Whether you’ve determined your skin is dry or you do suspect eczema, moisturize at least twice a day, Plescia advises, and skip any products with fragrance or essential oils, as they can be common irritants. Also, “use humidifiers to help increase the air humidity,” she says, and take warm, not hot showers. Both tweaks to your routine can help skin better retain its own moisture, in turn keeping the skin barrier intact.

If this isn’t your first (eczema) rodeo and you already know your triggers, minimize or eliminate them. “This could be certain foods, such as eggs, and skincare ingredients, such as retinoids,” says Parenti. “Just focus on gentle cleansing, moisturizing, and protecting the skin.”

Finally, if you suspect you have eczema — or your dry skin isn’t improving even once you’ve made changes — head to your derm. “It is best to always visit and receive treatment from a medical professional,” Plescia says. “Eczema also causes a depression of the skin barrier health and function and can lead to additional conditions and concerns, such as infections, if left untreated.”

Even if you go just to rule it out, you can be confident that you did your due diligence for both your skin and your overall health — so it’s worth it.

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References

[1] One factor at play is filaggrin, an important skin protein that plays a critical role in barrier function. In fact, a 2006 study found that a lack of filaggrin, which stems from a genetic mutation, appears to drive skin inflammation by releasing certain immune cells — and, as a result, contributes to eczema.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3378480/